I have added a few cars to the FM club garage.
All are modded to the top. Will probably change as I use them for different things.
Ford Focus RS
Ford Escort RS
Ferrari 458 Italia
Ferrari 355 Challenge
Chevrolet Z06
Tesla Roadster.
There is more, but I can't remember what I shared out.
Add me, Dolfan349. [thumbup]
Please add me, tag is Viable Device.
I should mention something about the cars I shared. They are built on the concept of Less Weight = better acceleration, braking, and handling. They aren't cars that you can charge ahead with on the big straight. In fact on the big road courses you'll lose unless you really keep up on the corners. My usual build is to reduce driveline rotating mass first (flywheel, driveshaft, transmission, rims...etc), followed by static mass, and then add in a balance of power and grip.
The cars are tuned to be rather tail happy and quick to react. A wheel would be best to use any cars I tuned, but if you got a fast twitch thumb you can drive them with a normal controller (thats what I use).
Though if you really want to go for a crazy ride try my A class Lotus Elan sprint. 1G cornering grip, only 1500lbs or so + more than 300hp. VERY fast, very nimble. Don't play tag with any cars, you'll lose.
That's interesting.Originally Posted by THE_FRUITY_ONE
How I am tuning my cars(to the class limit) is go for as much tire grip as I can fit first without breaking into the next class(unless I am taking a car from like D to B for example) then weight reduction, then brakes/downforce. If it is an older car I go for antiroll bars and suspension first as no matter how good your tires are if you have all the weight shifting so strongly in a corner you are going to lose traction.
Power is almost always the last thing I do. Usually I fill in the last few points of class index with upgraded clutch/flywheel/driveshaft as they typically don't up the index much and are great for getting more power to the road from of the default tuning. Exceptions to this power rule are the super minis with like 80hp or something which just boosting it to say 120hp can make a huge difference since you get WAY more hp/ton on a car that weighs 1500lbs with the cheap upgrades than a car that already has ~250hp and weighs close to 3000lbs.
I had a pretty easy time in Forza 3 picking my cars to max out for all the particular classes, but in Forza 4 I seem to be having a little trouble. I have some cars set up for F E D and C class but they all feel like I could find something better....Even my A class Ferrari 512 Testa Rossa feels like it isn't as good as the exact same setup I have in Forza 3 for the same class....all of my cars are from the 90s though, maybe that is why?
All the modern low-tier cars just feel terrible. Crappy suspension and made-to-a-budget default settings, just feels like you have to upgrade them WAY more to reach the same level of handling/cornering as the 90s versions. Sports cars not included of course.
Last edited by TigerHawk; 10-19-2011 at 08:46 PM.
Been havin' a blast with FM4! [thumbup] the AI can be a paint in the arse at times but I guess that's one of the challenge eh? [rofl] and on top of that been playing around with the photomode, love the high res pic this time around compared to last time
and here's my entry (first ever!) for FM weekly photo challenge
Modifying a car is all about matching the car to the class you enter it into and your driving style. I'm very much a lightweight fan. In real life I have to make compromises based on $$$ or Ride Comfort because the car must be something I could comfortably drive 1000 miles.That's interesting.
How I am tuning my cars(to the class limit) is go for as much tire grip as I can fit first without breaking into the next class(unless I am taking a car from like D to B for example) then weight reduction, then brakes/downforce. If it is an older car I go for antiroll bars and suspension first as no matter how good your tires are if you have all the weight shifting so strongly in a corner you are going to lose traction.
Power is almost always the last thing I do. Usually I fill in the last few points of class index with upgraded clutch/flywheel/driveshaft as they typically don't up the index much and are great for getting more power to the road from of the default tuning. Exceptions to this power rule are the super minis with like 80hp or something which just boosting it to say 120hp can make a huge difference since you get WAY more hp/ton on a car that weighs 1500lbs with the cheap upgrades than a car that already has ~250hp and weighs close to 3000lbs.
I had a pretty easy time in Forza 3 picking my cars to max out for all the particular classes, but in Forza 4 I seem to be having a little trouble. I have some cars set up for F E D and C class but they all feel like I could find something better....Even my A class Ferrari 512 Testa Rossa feels like it isn't as good as the exact same setup I have in Forza 3 for the same class....all of my cars are from the 90s though, maybe that is why?
All the modern low-tier cars just feel terrible. Crappy suspension and made-to-a-budget default settings, just feels like you have to upgrade them WAY more to reach the same level of handling/cornering as the 90s versions. Sports cars not included of course.
Its why several people I race with have so much fun when we go at it. Because our cars are built different and have different strengths it makes the race so much more interesting. For instance, most of my cars will go much deeper into a corner before braking, this opens up late braking options for me. And because of my quest for low driveline mass and overall weight reduction my cars accelerate much harder and earlier out of the corner. The down side is if I don't get enough lead on them to the next corner I'm forced to concede the position or resort to blocking techniques which we consider "rude".
I'll do it to the A.I. in the game, but not in online multiplayer. I prefer to race people as cleanly as possible. That doesn't mean I won't get inches off your bumper going into a corner, or that I am unwilling to go 2 or 3 wide to take advantage of a passing opportunity. Sometimes things go wrong and we rub paint, but most of my online forza group understands that rubbing is racing and there is a difference between an intentional bump and accidental contact. If contact is made we usually give up the spot we just gained. We prefer close racing, and we like it so much we'll play cat and mouse as many times as it takes.
Since you have some real-life experience in racing, can you comment on how Forza is compared to GT5?
I'm already in a club, but would like more Forza people on friends list to have on Rivals to compete against. [thumbup]
Gamertag: izoic
Last edited by Z0iCc3Li; 10-20-2011 at 04:31 AM.
I have zero real experience with GT5 other than the stations setup in stores. In which case the physics and damage is ridiculously arcade and easy. I'm told this changes as you progress, but I don't have a PS3 so can't say anything about GT5.
My experience with forza 4 is that its closer to RL than Forza 3 was. The cars bite back harder when you screw up. Its possible to get into a tank slapper which didn't happen in Forza 3. In RL tank slappers aren't just reserved for bikes. [surrender]
I've never had it happen to me at high speed in RL because I hold back from the limit being that I can't just replace the GTA if it gets totalled so I hold back from the edge more than I would if I didn't care about rebuilding or replacing the car.
I have considered looking for a worn down car to build a true stripper out of, gutted interior and all.
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